I am currently working on a project I wanted to discuss with you guys. I am working on a ’88 Corvette that I am making a street rod out of. I want put in a new engine, preferably a LS1 or LS2 and install one of your superchargers on it sticking through the hood. I want to keep the car fuel injected and produce as much street able horsepower possible on pump gas. I have installed 2 of your kits on my vehicles before, one of them on my 2003 Hummer H2 and one on my 2004 Chevy SS Pickup. I absolutely love your kits and would really like to stick to them if at all possible.
If this is something you guys could help me with I would greatly appreciate it. The questions I have are as follows:
1) Is the LS1 or LS2 engine a good idea?
2) I was looking at getting a used engine and rebuilding it. Do you think this would be OK?
3) If you think going the rebuilt route is OK, Do you have any recommendations for any modifications I would need to do while it is torn down?
4) What kind of compression ratio am I looking for?
5) Any recommendations on aftermarket parts for the engines (cranks, connecting rods, pistons) if needed?
6) Is there any particular engine I need to look for (early model vs. late model, truck engine vs. Corvette or Camaro engine, etc.)?
7) How much is the cost of one of your kits for an application like this?
Any other input you could give me would be great!
These are just a few of the questions I thought of getting started on this project. Please keep in mind price is a factor (there is still a recession going on at my house) so I have to spend wisely . As I said earlier you guys build a great product and I would love to put one in this project and again thanks for your help.

Rebuilding LS aluminum blocks is frequently not cost effective, because there's so little room to overbore. If you have to re-sleeve, you're better off with a crate engine, or having one built from scratch. I had a forged LQ9 (iron block LS1) built by Erik Koenig in Houston. The iron is better suited to supercharged and high power applications, as there is significantly less cylinder wall balooning and squirming of the deck. The bare blocks go for about $700. The trick is getting a controller and harness if you're going the EFI route. Otherwise, a carburetor perched on top of a Whipple is pretty slick, too. You don't need to go low on compression, as you might with a turbocharger. Positive displacement blowers like Whipple and Eaton are very happy with 10-10.5:1 compression with premium fuel, leaving you with something that's not a pig out of boost. Whipple blowers are VERY predictable, as the relationship between boost and RPM holds no surprises.

__________________
World's First Twin Screw Pontiac GTO
Blown H/C 408 and other stuff. Billet tires. Stage 3 keyboard.
2008 HHR SS w/ tweaked turbo
www.aussiemotive.com..... fquick

Thanks for your help. I agree the aluminum block could get into some bucks. I didn't think about the LQ9. That is the route I'll go. Plus they should be alot cheaper.

In looking around for a LQ9 I am finding out a few things. First the LQ9 is somewhat hard to find used and when you do find one of them the prices seem a little high. During my looking I have found quite a few LQ4s and they are priced very reasonable. From my investigation the major differences I have seen between the two is that the LQ9 has about 20 more horsepower and a little higher compression.
I light of this is there any reason as to why I wouldn't use the LQ4 over the LQ9?
Is there any other reasons that you know of as to why I wouldn't want to use the LQ4?