Cockpit view

Started installing the fire suppression system today. Got the arming cable in and routed. Ran out of time though so maybe I can finish it when I get back.





There is enough gas flowing through the pump to fuel a nuclear explosion. I intend to put at least two nozzles on me, two on the engine and two on the fuel pump. Big intent is to keep the flames off me until I can get out. I will wear an SFI 5 full suit at the track in addition to this. I just got the feel it was necessary. I don't see what anyone running larger fuel delivery systems wouldn't consider them. My intent is to run the aluminum tubing up the console to the engine compartment through the firewall mounting one tube behind the blower with nozzles on each side, over the fuel rails. That will leave one more nozzle on that tube to mount on the console about mid thigh. The second aluminum tube will have a nozzle at my ass and then run back through the rear with two nozzles on the pump and filters. The bottle is going to mount on the drivers side rear floorboard back up against the rear seat, so off the floor up the floor pan. That way I think none of it will interfere with the cage when we get it installed. Any suggestions are welcome. We went with FFE instead of Halon which superheats and tends to burn lungs during a fire as inhaled. the FFE is supposed to stay cool and is water based.

Didn't get a chance to welcome you over here, Taco Man. You have joined the world's smallest club of Whippled GTO's.

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Very Nice, watched your You Tube videos. Are you going to get a hood for that or what?

WELL DONE! We're running a 4.0L on our GT500 @ 26psi, your GTO must be FLYING at the track

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Thanks guys, I have been buried in belt dust for some time. At 21 lbs of boost my alternator armatures started melting followed by the tensioners then the dampener. We backed up and studied it and have separated the supercharger drive from the serpentine belt accessory drive. We also eliminated the OEM water pump and are putting a remote Moroso unit in. We've pretty much had to fabricate everything up to now and are a couple of spacers away from the first set of dyno pulls. Here are some mock up drawings we've done with the work in progress. We hope the cogged drive will let us get to 25-30 lbs.

The Lethal Performance GT500 is awesome.

Spent a thousand dollars on a hood for the Harrop, then it wouldn't work. Going to wait until we get the cog drive done and I am sure where everything will fit.

Ahhhh.. "belt dust"! Fond memories...

What eventually ended my 383 was the fatigue and subsequent snapping off of the crank shaft snout. This was a classic SBC though, not a Gen-III SBC. I was only pulling 9psi from a W140AX and not even enough torque to snap a 6-rib belt. I'm curious if the Gen-III crank stands a better chance.
The heater needs to come off the lines going to the thermostat, not the ones from the water pump. The ones from the water pump are moving return coolant from the radiator that's cold. The return from the heater core needs to go to the intake side of the water pump so that water from the heater core is not actually additionally cooled by the radiator. There doesn't seem to be a way to do a bypass in this setup. A bypass is open when the thermostat is closed (dual-purpose thermostat) and recirculates hot coolant to prevent hot spots.

Welcome to the forum!

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Thanks for pointing out the heater hose connections. I'm certainly no expert but have managed to melt an Innovator West Dampener thus far. We had planned to run the heater hoses off the back side of the TStat filler cap. There are three openings there, one for the temperature sensor and two for the SBC crossovers. The crankshaft is a high end item, we burned up about 20 drill bits pinning it. I've got about 4,000 miles on the motor, probably 1000 with the Whipple.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qGlBm6uQ0SI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TrHjEVLNgok

That second video... HOLY SH**