Hello guys, been batteling a bad pinging problem when I get on the boost. I ruined my last motor with the detonation issues and cannot seam to be able to zero it in on the new motor as well? I am in Az so it is much worse in the summer. I have even purchased a EFI live but need a PHD to program. any thoughts I may have missed above wiring,fuel,plugs,Maf etc?. I sent module to whipple and they added more fuel in boost with no help?
THX
Roy

If the factory platinum plugs are still in it swap them out to NGK TR6 gapped to 0.045". These are cooler.
What thermostat do you have in it? If 195 swap to 180. If 180 already swap to 160.
How many mile/years on the fuel pump?
Fuel filter?
There is also a procedure for doing top end engine cleaning using GM Top Engine Cleaner or Seafoam. (Either should be followed by oil and plug change.) They are strong liquid solvents ingested into the intake at idle. Their purpose is to dissolve and discharge carbon buildup from the combustion chamber. They both also help with EGR deposits (depending on the year of your truck) in the intake and on the back of the intake valves.

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"James B." '99LT_Tahoe4Dr2WD, Tuned L29 Vortec 454, 62#Injectors, Cutouts, 4L80-E 10.5"14bolt ,EatonPosi-4.56:1, Gear_Vendors, HydroBoost, (NEXT: Brodix heads, 230/240 cam, SS roller rockers, longtubes, THEN: Intercooled W200R-8psi in the future...)

Fuel Filter/pressure good. running NGK .045 gap have powerstat 180 deg thermo. Original fuel pump from 2001 but in spec even at boost. Engine clean as it only has 10k miles on new motor. Tore down old motor and looked like day it was built(other than the rings I hammered) , ( no carbon build up at all)always run Amsoil with dual filtration. I run good high test gas and even tried racing fuel no help. I also have the older whipple programmer that I bought with the Whipple new in 01 and have tried the other setting with no help. Have checked all wiring individually and even purchased a new set in case. Nada



Roy

Try an oil cooler, it sometimes helps greatly on boosted cars with detonation.

since you have EFI, log it and see where the timing is at. i can only run 14-16 degrees in the summer heat before i get detonation. would be wise to invest in a wideband too.

Hey Bratch, How much luck have you have resolving these issues? I've also got an '01 5.3 and for the second time, I've lost the #7 cylinder. I'm running bigger injectors with good fuel pressure. I don't want lose another engine and I'd sure like to know what direction to go in to prevent it. Thanks.

#7 runs hotter and leaner than the others on LS motors. I don't recall off the top of my head if the 01 5.3 was LS derived or the Vortec heads on a SBC iron block. The eutectic cast pistons are prone to crunching ring lands at the slightest hint of detonation on an F/I motor. If rebuilding, you definitely want nice forged pistons and rods in there. The factory LS crank is fine if you're not stroking it. If the fueling is stable and you are running at a safe AFR, say in the 11 range under boost, then excessive timing is probably the culprit. You don't need much spark lead on a blown motor. There are any number of "gotchas" ranging from maxxing out a MAF sensor to losing control of your spark table due to excessive VE values. Running EFI Live with their 2 bar SD operating system is the safest method I know of for managing a boosted motor.

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Any luck with the pinging im haveing the same problem on my 6.0L any advice would help thank you